Woody Gap to Springer Mountain 20.5 Section Hike

Day 1: Wed. afternoon, August 17th
Bill K. drives his loaded down vehicle with Reggie, Janet, and J.D. past Suches, Georgia, to Woody Gap where they jump out and quickly heft packs on to their backs. It is a perfect temperature at 5 o'clock as they start southward; the air fresh and spirits high. Bill sets the pace and his female devotees stay close on his heels. Cresting the ridge of Ramrock Mtn. they enjoy the splendid view!

Now beginning to climb, an undulating path takes them deep within a hardwood forest with soaring, stately trees. Here and there a chipmunk scampers or poles click on rocks, but words are scarce as they push toward Gooch Gap and then beyond to Gooch Shelter- 5.5 miles.

 Janet shows Reggie how to hoist her

'ghostly' looking pack (covered with a poncho in case of rain). A cacophony of tree frogs and a mournful hoot howl kee them company as night closes in.

Day 2: After a fitful rest by the 3 females, they arise in the early morning to find the packs weren't safe from the critters after all. Janet and Reggie both have evidence that something was in their packs. Note the pictures here:!

The damage to Reggie's water reservoir mouthpiece proves to be a huge problem as the day wears on. Bill kindly offers her the use of one of his water bottles since she only has one other. On the trail by 8:00am and within a mile+ finds them on a slight descent to Justus Creek a/k/a Devil's Kitchen, a scenic junction with campsites and the last water source until the destination of Hawk Mtn. Shelter. 

Then it is a climb up Justus Mtn., a foreshadowing of what is to come! (climb, descend). Descent to Cooper Gap, a tougher ascent of Sassafras Mtn., descent to Horse Gap where they run in to an Army ranger scouting for maneuvers. (The guide books inform you that you are close to Camp Merrell, a training ground for the Rangers.)

Crossing a FS Road and another climb up Hightower Gap. Now, it's really getting tough. Reggie is on her second bottle of water that Bill has lent her. Each take turn leading, stopping to rest at intervals, until arriving at a level plateau.  Here they meet John and Carl, buddies of Bill's who took his car and left it at FS Road 42 where the group is to retrieve it. John and Carl are headed to Neel's Gap. Passing off Bill's keys, they also give bad news: this climb isn't over. There is almost an hour more of hiking, 2 more climbs, before Hawk Mtn. Shelter. With dread, they take off to get there before eating lunch. It's now after one o'clock. They've been hiking 5 hours with heavy boots, labored breaths, and Bill is now is out of water.

J.D. and Reggie force themselves to a faster pace, racing toward the shelter. Finally there, they throw off packs and head off in the direction where Reggie thinks the sign points toward the water.  About 1/2 mile later, she knows she's hit the wrong trail! Retracing steps, they find the right trail, get to the water, and begin to fill water bottles. Janet arrives to let them know that Bill is at the shelter. Sending her back with water, they finish filling water containers and then each clean up while they have the chance!

Altogether at Hawk Shelter now (7.5 miles), they rest, taking stock of the tough day. It takes a while to recover, but eventually, they decide to forego lunch and eat an early dinner. A couple of firefighters from Florida join them, but decide to tent camp nearby. Reggie and Janet think sleep will be better in tents also and set up. However, thunder rolls and sprinkles convince them to move the tents inside the shelter!

After good conversation and laughter, they all settle down for the night. Rain never comes, but the night sky is soon crowded with helicopters swooping back and forth: the Rangers are playing! Reggie announces to the others that it stinks in her tent. Hmnn?

Day 3: The group had agreed to wake up by 5:45am and get started early, but Bill jumps the gun a bit and is up by 4:15am. Soon, the group has on headlamps, quietly preparing coffee, hot chocolate, oatmeal, etc.  By 5:50am, they wait for a bit of light so they can start off safely. Bill hints it is sometimes nice to hike in the dark, and that is all it takes for them to get boots on the trail.

It is surreal. For long stretches, soft mist plays on the profusion of ferns spied by the bouncing light of the headlamps. Bill points out the interesting half-white ferns in one area which we think is due to the effects of drought.

This 'flowering fungus' is on a log.

Janet and J.D. both have taped up blisters on their feet, but bravely keep the pace on the gradual descent to Long Creek Falls. Then at Three Forks, a picturesque spot by a FS Road and a beautiful creek, they take a break where J.D. treats her feet again. Crossing the creek, a gradual climb takes them to a re-routed trail which led to Stover Creek Shelter. Climbing more, their tired feet finally find FS Road 42 and Bill's car! 7.1 miles. While Bill moves the car closer (walking across the parking area seemed sooo far), the girls debate  the necessity of finishing the .9 miles up to the top of Springer. In the end, they all head up...even J.D. and her blistered, taped feet. And it is worth it. 7.8 miles.

Coming out on that rocky precipice the view spreads out before them with the rolling hills far below. It seems as if the air itself swirls with the hopes and dreams of the thousands that have tromped there before. A niggling wistfulness settles in Reggie's heart when she ensconces herself on that big rock atop Springer Mtn. She pulls from the metal lockbox the plain composition notebook with entries from folks from all walks of life. The moment is full of both promise and tenderness; yearnings of each individual standing there could not possibly be written in ink on those pages in a couple of short lines. So, she settles on a few words from Ullysses by Tennyson. 'Life to the Lees' four words that encompass a lot. (Reggie would like to officially acknowledge her appreciation to Bill Kinnaman. He helped instill in her the confidence to pursue the dream of following that elusive, long path called the Appalachian Trail.) And she couldn't have done it with any better hiking buddies than Bill, sweet Janet, and encouraging J.D. The first of what the Chronicler hopes is many sections hikes on the AT!

A happy, satisfied, stinky, motley group  rides back home!

Fall Creek Falls Backpack Causes Fever

Saturday morning, August 13th, five of us gathered for the drive to Fall Creek Falls, and we all knew Donald would have everything under control. After all, it IS Donald. However, we may have been a tad preoccupied with whether or not it was going to rain to notice the temperature. The scenic drive thru the Sequatchie Valley passed the time and we arrived in good spirits. Got ourselves registered at the Nature Center, our packs on our backs, and took off on the Paw Paw Trail.

After a bit of meandering, we found our way toward the turn to the Overnight Trail. Now, we were cookin', we just didn't mean to do it literally.

The trail led through hardwoods in full leaf foliage, some grasses, with a few rocky patches, nothing unusual. We made it to Campsite #1 and settled down for lunch.

From here, we trekked a short distance and found a sign indicating Campsite #2 (our goal for the night) was another 2.5 miles. It was heating up, but we trudged onward until we found ourselves working very carefully down the 800 foot descent into the gorge. Across the bottom, we continued until we arrived at the dry creek bed where Donald called for a break before we attacked the climb out.

 The suspension bridge needed a toll-taker!

The humidity hung heavy as we crossed the bridge, turned left up the trail and began the hardest part of our day: the 800 foot climb out of the gorge to the other side. Soon, we were hopping boulders, picking the easiest route as best we could. Each stopped as needed to rest a bit before continuing onward and upward. Sweat dripped, faces reddened, and there might have been a thought or two that we could be sitting inside an air conditioned house at that moment! The Chronicler pitched forward at one point when her foot caught in some rocks and scuffed her leg, but with Donald's help got up and kept on trucking. When she finally arrived at the sign indicating Campsite #2, she kissed it! Little did she know those 400 more yards on the sign meant more climbing! This was the first time she drank all her water on a hike! About 6.5 miles for the day.

Joe arrived first, then Linda, Reggie, joined by Monty and Donald. Campsite #2 has a hand pump for water (still needs treatment) and a privy which Donald refuted the notion it was his duty to clean! Ha!

We all took a moment to cool down after the difficult climb in the horrific heat before searching out a good camp spot. Fortunately, we arrived before a couple of other groups that arrived later and took our pick of the spaces available. Donald needed several trees to tie off the tarp he so nicely carried inside his infamous stupendous pack! Then, it was time to set up tents, filter water, and eat. Before you knew it, Joe had disappeared inside his tent. Linda had some mysterious spots on her legs and she, too, delved into her tent, Monty had itchy legs and went inside, so it was left to Reggie and Donald to visit while dusk settled. We weren't joined by a whippoorwill, but we did have bats darting through the sky and and owl hooting a strange sound. When mosquitoes starting landing, I bid goodnite and found my pad felt absolutely wonderful on my tired back, but the sticky heat made it soo hard to rest as everything on me felt wet and clammy. After a restless night, morning was serenaded in by several singing birds. Breakfast came quick, then it was time to pack up and head out.

We think we're ready for the day!

We headed out at 9:05am, travelling over a level, soft pine needle covered trail for much of the way.

Yea, the first bridge!





By now, we are droopified

Hopeful, that we are within a couple of miles, we arrive at a parking lot and realize that we have Not found our cars. After a look around, we find the trail and soon find the Fall Creek Falls overlook, and then several other overlooks, but no Nature Center. Very poor signage in this area! Finally, we get to the suspension bridge below the Center, and we know we're there! About 6 miles. A hot, hot, time was had by all! With lunch in Dunlap at the Blue Orchid, 3 of us had cheeseburgers to celebrate while Donald stayed healthy with a turkey sandwich.



Kirkland Creek Trail Maintenance



The Chronicler's new boots needed a trial, plus, she was just itchin' to get out on some trail, somewhere. So, she heard about Betty getting a crew together to do some trail maintenance at Bald River. Jumping in without a thought, (something she does on occasion), the Chronicler volunteers. The crew from the Chattanooga area included Betty, John, Monty, Don, and the Chronicler. It was only after they were on the road up to Tellico, she learned they were going to Kirkland Creek.

"Rhut-ro," she thought. (Having been there before and knowing about those infamous creek crossings and knowing she did not bring her water shoes.) She looked at her cutsie black flipflops and knew right then they were goners.

After breakfast at Hardee's in Tellico, we were soon on the backside of nowhere on a short cut Betty knew to the trailhead. We traveled in and out of dips on the mountain and then around the ridgetop for a great view, at one point disturbing a hawk who perched on a limb near the road.

Finally, we arrived at the trailhead where two trucks were parked. Betty recognized them and knew the other volunteers were already hard at work on blowdowns on the trail.
With loppers in hand, plus, Donald's rope tied around his waist in case it was needed, we were crossing the first creek. Sure 'nuf, a flipflop was sucked off in the mud and gentlemen, Donald, actually stuck his hand in the black muck and dug around to find them! Talk about a sweetheart!!

Betty took off and we all began cutting dog hobble and foliage over and near the trail. Some poison ivy was spotted and the Chronicler instructed John to take care of that. After a while when she was sure they had gone at least a mile, Donald corrected that to maybe 1/2 mile. :-(  This trail maintenance work is slow going! We had lost Betty right after we got started, so we ended up stopping for a cool-down and lunch about 1:30pm without her. Afterward, we bumped in to her as she came back looking for us. This is when we were informed that the 'real' work was at mile 3. Uh ho... off, we went in search of mile 3 which was 2 or 3 creek crossings ahead. It was recommended to the Chronicler by Donald that she stop at one of the creeks before mile 3 and start back, lopping at the foliage we were leaving in our haste.

The Chronicler worked quite a bit in solitude..kinda of nice! While she was thus occupied, Betty came back down the trail, and then the other volunteers who had been working on the blowdowns, Bill, Ken, Jim, and Bobby, passed by on their way back. Eventually, we all were back at the trucks. We found out there were some other guys 'out there somewhere' working on the far end of the trail. Jim and Bobby get extra credit in the Chroniclers' eyes because she found out they are actually back country horse riders and Kirkland Creek is not designated for that!

A good, hard days work. Maybe it didn't all get done, but it helped a lot. Hopefully, lots of folks will enjoy the trail a bit more. Especially, the car campers attending Betty's planned weekend nearby in August.

Grayson Highlands...To-Die-For...Almost

Rusty and I didn't leave the backpacker's parking lot at the Massey Gap trailhead til 3:00m on Saturday, July 16th. We were a bit apprehensive about committing to the hike because of the rainy weather. After all, it was the views we were after and we didn't want to 'waste' a hike! (Can that be done?)

Finally, we made the plunge and took off thru the gate and made our way thru the grassy path. Soon, we found the second gate that led to the Rhododendron Trail and began the gradual climb in the rainy mist. In less than 1/2 mile, we found ponies grazing.

We left the ponies and continued on til we came to the gate that led out of Grayson Highlands and in to Mt. Rogers National Recreation Area. At this point the rain had subsided, the misty fog remained, but we found the  AT spur trail and began to climb. From what I had heard about this area, I knew we were passing by astounding views we couldn't see! Still, Rusty and I were enjoying the quiet experience...the stillness of the path, the hush of everything except our breath as we climbed and occasional bursts of song from Baltimore orioles along the way.

Then, we made what I'd call a big mistake...we came across a sign pointing toward the 'Wilburn Ridge Trail'...a mile long trail that also connected to the AT. We couldn't see anything in the mist except a few feet in front of us. The first rock formation we climbed, we high-fived each other on our little adventuresome scramble. The next, we were more subdued, the third, I was getting frustrated, the fourth, I admitted, I was over it. This one, I felt I had put myself in some danger. The backside of my long rain poncho flew up over my head as I crawled over the slippery rock precipice. I was already hindered by the front billowing out in front from the wind. All this kept me from seeing where to put my next foot. Believe me, in that situation, on that rock, I needed to see. I held on like a crab while Rusty made it up past me, grabbed a hand and pulled me up. We got off that rock relieved to be alive and descended into more lush vegetation, verdant green ferns and foliage lured us into twists and turns alongside boulders jutting alongside the path that finally joined the AT.

Another 1/2 mile or so, brought us out of the mist and we found a view!

The Hunchback of Mr. Rogers

The adrenalin kicked in as we walked the AT, enjoying the spruce and firs and pristine wilderness. Then, we began to spot camping areas along the way and we began to search for one of our own. We'd already decided to be out in our tent rather that in Thomas Knob Shelter which we knew was close to our water source. It didn't take long to spot an area. Rusty allowed me to talk him into a certain spot for the tent (I wanted because of the view.) By the time we got it set up, it was near 7:00pm. 

About 1/3rd mile down, we found the Shelter and Ernie who went with Rusty to pump water from the spring. Now, we were finally seeing the gorgeous views! We also saw deer jumping along as we made our way back to camp.

Back at camp, Rusty filtered water while I pumped up the air mattresses. In no time, we were enjoying Chili Mac for supper...it was tasty! My sweetie let me climb in to the tent while he served up hot chocolate. I love that man! Did I mention the chill? Yes, I had on a fleece and kept it on.

Rusty regretted letting me choose the tent spot...we fought the roll all night. He also experienced leg cramps and realized, he had become a bit dehydrated. A fitful nights' sleep didn't keep us from enjoying our quiet morning on the side of Mt. Rogers; our coffee, oatmeal, and mother nature...sweet!

We packed up and headed out, avoiding the dreadful Wilburn Ridge leg of the trail:-) Without the rain and mist, our trip back was much quicker. The oohs and aahs continued as around every turn there was a spectacular view. The AT path was rocky and the climb thru the boulders caused a slow-down, but so worth it. The grassy meadows were gorgeous with views on surrounding sides!

Near the end of Mt. Rogers, we found this sweet pregnant mare with a colt nearby. A wonderful short backpack that left us wanting more of Grayson Highlands/Mt. Rogers. There are so many trails in this area to be explored! (I also understand the lower end of Wilburn Ridge is wonderful..I just advise avoiding the upper end in the rain.)

Brevard Spring Hiking

The spring hiking trip for the Chattanooga Hiking Club's Wednesday group started off with an unfortunate bang. (Two vehicles were involved, but it was sorted in no time, the details left later, and we were soon headed up the interstate.) We probably didn't shake off the troubling morning until we stopped in Sylva, NC, for lunch and settled down with some food in our stomach's. The drive through the mountains was beautiful, but we didn't arrive at our house at Rainbow Lake Resort on a back road near Brevard without a few wrong turns (those mountain roads CAN be confusing!).  We dumped our gear, left Bob and Karen at the house, and took off for Dupont State Forest to try and get a quick hike in with dreary sky's overhead, threatening our fun.

We arrived at Dupont and were soon on a well-traveled path headed toward High Falls. It did not disappoint. Wow! We spied the water through foliage, but when we got to the actual viewing area, they were gorgeous. Transylvania County is known for the abundance of falls and you just can't underestimate the beauty.

We continued on around the loop and in no time, we were at Triple Falls, another gorgeous falls.

We accomplished our hike without a drop of rain, got back to the house, and in no time, were eating a delicious casserole prepared by Linda and enjoying a salad brought by Patti. And Kathy brought out her famous chocolate layer cake!

Next  morning Arlene had a great frittata ready for breakfast, we all had our rain gear on hand, and took off for nearby Caesars Head State Park just over the South Carolina state line. But as we climbed altitude, we were enveloped in fog and wondered at the safety of being on an unfamiliar trail. The plan was to stop at the park office and speak with a ranger, but we found the office closed at that early hour. It was decided to head back to Dupont Forest where there was less fog. We got on the Big Rock Trail, and found ourselves climbing a path that  became rocky. Then, we found ourselves on a granite promenade with a view of the Pisgah Mountains. Taking off from here on up the mountain, signs instructed us to watch for cairns to point us in the direction we should go. (Indicative of the type of mountain we were on, at this point it was more rock/granite.) As we made the ascent, Bill stopped the group and gave us a lesson on how unusual this type of trail was for the South, reminding us that we would find promontory's like this on more northern portions of the AT. Here, the rain found us and the gear came on.

However, as we descended it came in spurts and by the time we were at the Little River, it was gone.

Back at the cars, we made the decision to go back up to the South Carolina line, and try again for one of the trails called Raven Cliffs. Right on cue, we found the fog right across the line, but jumped on the trail soon after we parked. There was a bit of a descent, but soon, we were climbing a ridge in a beautiful hardwood forest. We were quieted by the soft mist on the mountain, a reminder we were intruding on mother natures world. But we came as friends and we felt the awesome power of the force she controls and respected it. Each step was made with care as we took caution to not step on the red salamanders we encountered all along the way. They had obviously just been hatched!

We ate lunch in a sweet gazebo while we enjoyed the view of Raven Cliff Falls. This was a fantastic spot despite the mosquito's. Someone advised raising an arm (it supposedly wards off the pesky things??).

We beat the weather, got our hikes in, and arrived back at the house to a table set and readied by Karen. She had a delicious southwestern casserole ready, Trish had a salad and side dish, and we were set for dinner. It wasn't long before we began getting messages from back home about the terrible tornado's that were beginning to hit. The t.v. came on and we spent the rest of the evening and into the late hours with our eyes glued to the weather station and our cell phone's close, watching and listening as the awful news came about the death and devastation. It was an uneasy night as the storm rolled thru our area. The next morning, we were all checking in with family and friends. After a breakfast of waffles, it was pack-up time which took a little while. We said good-bye to Bob and Karen and headed off for a short hike at John Rock in Pisgah National Forest.

The sky was as picture perfect as could be, crystal blue with puffy white dense clouds hanging overhead as began the hike on Cat Gap Loop Trail. It started by peaceful, meandering creek alongside the path with fly fishermen casting their rods. We crossed the bridge and found a couple picturesque campsites on the other side. There were also dwarf crested iris and the promised showy orchid.

At an intersection about a mile up, we turned right to cut off Cat Gap Loop and began the steady climb, gaining altitude and looking for the turn toward the granite rock. (Johns Rock is 3,200+ in height.) Finally, we found the path and emerged from the foliage to inch our way out on to the rocky face where enjoyed lunch. A few stayed on the edge, enjoying the feel of dirt under their feet rather than the slippery grade of the rock! We sat facing a to-die-for view gazing at Looking-Glass Rock and the surrounding folds of hills and mountains.

Despite the tough start and worrisome weather, we had a great group and enjoyed several wonderful hikes. Trish and Val are fantastic planners and so appreciated!